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Richard
Isanove
Colorist Extraordinaire
Interview
by Karl!
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Working
for Wildstorm and Top Cow, from colorist to art director,
Richard Isanove
has commanded respect and appreciation from many in the comic
industry.
Q: First,
I'd like to know how you ended up a computer colorist.
(I'd love a long story about what lead
you to your first coloring job!)
Richard Isanove:
Well, I came from France to the USA as an exchange
student and after I graduated, I decided to stay a little
bit and try to get a job. A friend of mine from school had
been an intern at Homage Studio in San Diego during the Summer
just before Marc Silvestri decided to separate Top Cow from
Wildstorm and move to Los Angeles.
I
went to Santa Monica and met with Brian Haberlin who was running
the color department at the time. He liked my portfolio which
was mostly of paintings and drawings, I had a very basic knowledge
of Photoshop but they let me stay and watch and learn from
the other colorists.
There
was Brian, Tyson Wrengler and Ashby Manson. At the time, they
were only doing 2 books: Cyber Force
and Stryke Force so
it was pretty calm and people would come in when they felt
like it and work as they wanted. I used to spend a week on
a page, trying to get it right. A few months later Jonathan
D. Smith joined us, then Steve Firchow, and later Dean White.
Those
were incredibly fun times: we all liked working at
night and we would spend the whole time chatting and working,
talking with the pencilers and the inkers, playing Video games
and listening to music until the break of day. Then, a year
after I started, Brian haberlin decided to go and work for
Todd [McFarlane] on Spawn. They offered me Brian's
old job and I became Art Director of the Color department.
By now we had 4 more regular books: Weapon
Zero, Witchblade,
Ripclaw, the
Darkness. Add on to that the Cyber
Force special origins issues, The Marvel crossovers,
the pinup books, etc... It had become a pretty busy place
but I still tried to keep the number of colorists to a minimum
just so it was still possible to supervise the overall quality.
I also became pretty good friend with with Brandon Peterson
after collaborating on the one shot "Misery".
I computer-colored "Spawn/Witchblade"
and then "Arcanum", while
still supervising the other books. After a year and a half
of working 20 hours a day, 7 days a week, without vacations
or Week- Ends, I decided to take it easy and start explore
new horizons.
I'm
now freelancing for about everybody from DC to Marvel, and
every company in-between. I work from home mostly by
mail and through the Internet, and still spend most of the
time on the phone with my friends from the Top Cow days. And
we still help each other when the deadlines are getting too
hard to meet.
Q: What
classes had you taken that helped you become a good colorist?
Richard Isanove:
I actually spent a lot of time in school: I went to
an art high school in France, then I spent three years at
the Fine art university where I decided I didn't want to be
an art teacher so I went to study at the Ecole Nationnale
Superieure des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. There, I specialized
in film, video and animation for four
Years. After graduation, I went to the California Institute
of the Arts, the animation School, created by Disney.
As
for the most useful classes, of course, the color theory courses
came in pretty handy, but it's mostly the drawing and painting
that taught me shading, lighting and how to play with contrast
and shadows. A photo class can also be useful to learn how
to stage a dramatic light.
Q:
A penciler needs to know perspective,
anatomy and storytelling, an inker needs to know depth and
shadow, what must a colorist know?
Richard Isanove:
You need to know your anatomy to be able to complement
the work of the penciler, understand the storytelling, depth
and shadow to be able to enhance every aspect of the drawing.
In this job, everybody relies on the others so the best penciler
is the one that knows what to leave open for the colorist
while still indicating strong light sources, a good inker
will add depth and textures, so as a colorist you have to
be able to look at the page and understand what the artist
is trying to do. There is much more than just coloring within
the lines, you have to really put yourself in the head of
the penciler and inker, recognize what they are aiming for,
and try to take it a step further. So, in conclusion, the
better understanding of every aspect of the work you have,
the better you're going to be able to do your part.
Q: Are
there any books you know of that can be helpful?
(Anything from software instructional manuals to books about
painting?)
Richard Isanove:
Well, we work with photoshop, so I guess any tutorial
would be useful, but once again, you will find the information
you need in painting and drawing manuals.
Q: What
would you like to say to all the pencilers and inkers as advice
that would make your job easier?
Richard
Isanove: One thing:
use your light sources wisely. Make sure that your lights
are coherent, don't overdo it with the secondary lights. Always
try to be as simple and effective as possible. If you look
at the old extreme studio books, everything is lit by at least
three light sources of different colors. It's ugly, impossible
to read, impossible to color. They think that people are gonna
like it because it's all shiny and bright. If you look at
the greatest painters like [Frank] Frazetta, they use one
dramatic light and maybe a secondary to help push the contrast.
Q: Who's
your favorite colorist?
Richard Isanove:
The guys I worked with: I like Brian Haberlin's and
Tyson Wrengler's synthetic and effective approach, JD Smith
and Liquid! for their understanding of the comic book color
vocabulary, Ashby Manson for his love and knowledge of color
theory and Steve Firchow for the subtlety of his color choices.
Q: What
are the most commonly repeated mistakes you see new colorists
doing?
Richard Isanove:
Poor knowledge of the lighting technique and believing
that the computer does the work. They use filters and special
effects without trying to incorporate them in the art. like
pasting a cloud or a fire special effect instead of creating
one on their own. It take the personality out of the art and
it makes them slaves to the technology instead of using it
for their own sake. You have to control your tool, and that's
all the computer is, and not let it control you.
Q: Is
all coloring done on computer nowadays? Are the "freehand"
days gone?
Richard Isanove:
I'm afraid that except for the fully-painted books
like "Kingdom Come", every mainstream book nowadays
is colored on computer.
Q: Is
there a demand for more colorists, or is the market currently
too small to employ everybody, like the case seems to be with
writers and artists?
Richard Isanove:
It is a shrinking market for everyone, it's not too
small, but you can never be sure whether your book is going
to be canceled or if the company you're working for is going
to go under any time.
Q: Do
you color any non-comic stuff?
Richard Isanove:
I still paint, and once in a while people ask me to
do book covers, pinups, illustrations or ads. But, most of
my work is comicbook related.
Q: How
long does it take for you to color a page?
Richard Isanove: Depending on
the complexity of the page and how familiar I am with the
artist, it can take between from 2 to 24 hours. The average
is between 6 and 8 hours
Q: What
equipment do you use -- from computer to scanner, and which
program(s)?
Richard
Isanove: I have a
PC Pentium Pro 300 MHz Dual processor
with 256 Megs of RAM. I have
21 inch Viewsonic Monitor, An Epson
Stylus printer, and a crappy Plustech
Scanner that I almost never use since clients usually
e-mail me the scanned pages. Also very important is the Wacom
graphic tablet. I exclusively work on Photoshop.
Q: This
question I'd like you to elaborate on as much possible: "Describe
how you color a page step by step." Step one being:
You just got the page to color in your hand.
Please try to not use too many technical words, beginners
must be able to follow your steps, with all the layer-switching
and brushes.
Richard
Isanove:
- The
pages are sent to me on a Zip
or by E-mail.
- Put
the line art in a different channel so that it appears
on top of the colors. Then it's mostly gradients and airbrush.
It's just about making selections that define the design
of the light on the objects and using strokes of airbrush.
- I
usually select the outside shape of the object, fill it
with a dark color and cut slivers, thinner and thinner,
ending with the brightest highlights. There really is
no general formula, it's mostly judgment and eye. You
just go back and forth until it looks good.
- It's
usually better to start with the background so that by
the time you get to the characters you're still motivated.
If you start by the fun stuff, you won't have the drive
to pay attention to the details in the background. Also,
don't get too caught up in the details, try to work with
a general appreciation of the whole page. Push the contrast
on objects that are closer and go lighter if they are
far away. For a full technical description of the process,
you can refer to the Comic
Colorists Unite! web site.
Q: After
the coloring is done, will the printing affect how dark/light
it'll turn out in the comic. What can you do to make sure
your finished piece ends up as intended?
Richard Isanove:
Nothing, there is nothing to do. The printing
will go one way or another, sometimes too dark or too light,
to pink or too blue, etc... you get used to it and hope for
the best. All you can do is aim for an average. If the book
is ahead of schedule, the printer will send you a proof so
you can make some adjustments, but books are always late.
Q: Lastly,
we'll do a "Points to remember when coloring" section. I'll
list a mess of objects, and you tell me what one needs
to be aware of.
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Cars...
RI:
They are very boring but rather easy.
Nothing special except that if there is a lot of them,
it's hard to come up with new colors.
Skies...
RI:
Skies are fun. I love doing
clouds and meteorological phenomena A good way to
practice is to take a picture of clouds and color
on top of it until you can't see the photo anymore
but just your interpretation.
Trees...
RI:
2 ways to do trees simple gradients
or create leaves textures. You can create brushes
in the shape of leaves and use it as a stamp pattern.
Skin
and muscles...
RI:
the most important and difficult thing.
Skin has a very specific contrast that will look really
bad if not done well. It's hard to find the balance
between the coloring of the shadows due to the texture
of the light and the coloration of the skin. For example
giving a blue tint to things so it looks like night,
without turning people into smurfs.
Crowds
with al lot of people...
RI:
The worst: making everyone different
and still keep an impression of coherence.
Buildings...
RI:
Boring and hard to make them
look exciting. The best way to approach buildings
is to think of them as simple cubes and then go and
add the details of the architecture.
Sea/Water...
RI:
it's always interesting to try
to render the colors and transparency of the water.
On fathom, when I help Jonathan, we use a photo of
a swimming pool as a reference for the water whirly
pattern. I also like to integrate the decorative way
the waves are represented in Japanese traditional
paintings.
Clothes...
RI:
they are pretty easy since you're
the one establishing how shiny or dull each element
of the clothing is. Just have to be consistent.
Spandex...
RI:
It's a very simple technique,
very dark color, with a very thin, very bright highlight.
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~FIN~
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